tested my meter by putting ends in an outlet, and it read a perfect 120.and i'm reading at the disconnect from where the wires input to the disconnect from the home, not the wires that lead down to the outside unit. Gardener, yes the quick disconnect is outside near the unit, yes black to ground,(actually to test if it was my ground i put the meter probe directly in the dirt as well and still was able to read 24v to the input of the contactor from the t-stat but nothing at the disconnect) red to ground, and across both red to black nothing. i'm hoping it was just because of a power outage we had here about the same time the a/c went out, if not i'm sure i'll find out real quick that it's not. maybe another breaker box in the house i can't find, and yes i'm well aware if it's popped there's a reason for it. Tinmantu, the only double wide i've got is to the dishwasher the furnace is a single.hmmm. but i am stubborn and hate asking for help, but i hate very much more hearing my wife gripe about being hot any help is appreaciated. before turning on the a/c so that the cap will recharge, correct? I'm sorry if it sounds like i'm rambling. Also if someone does help me figure this thing out, i think i have to wait for 3 hrs. I don't have a designated circuit in my breaker box for just the outdoor unit(from what i can tell i only have the one for the heater and a/c together). My heater and interior blower works fine just outdoor unit won't cool the air coming through the ducts. But (obviously) no 220at any leg of the contactor. I'm getting 24v at the contactor point from t-stat telling me the unit has input from there. I'm not getting any voltage to either red or black wires and ground appears to follow the correct path. I have an outdoor a/c unit w/ an unfused(from what i can tell just off and on) quick disconnect outside. living w/out A/C for over a week, and can't find anyone who has the same problem i have. It looks like this will be the least expensive option.Here goes, i've been looking around the internet for days. The disconnect needs to be at least 5’ away from the tub and within 50’ + within site to meet code. Updated answer: suggested scrapping the 6’ wip from the disconnect and just running a new one. Just to make sure your box is at least 49 cu inch, if the ground in the cable is #10 you can subtract 2.5 cu inch because #10 is 2.5 not 5. Clamps we only count 1 for the largest again. Up to 4 grounds we only count the largest. The wire nuts and splices are included in the wire size. Where you run into problems is on the box fill #6 wire is 5 cu inc each and the number 12 is 2.25 cu inch plus clamps at 5 cu inch, you only have 4 grounds so the largest possibly a #10 in the 6 awg cable but I calculate it at #6 for worst case.Ĥ9 cu inch total since the box is outside it needs to be a 3R type box (you said you had the box I just ran the numbers because DIY almost always get hit here.) I would just use wire nuts with the 120v wiring, in both cases Big box stores and electrical stores carry the Polaris style and they would be all you need. I would suggest you get 4 Polaris style splices (97102) a Morris brand I got for ~5-6$ and it can handle 14-4 awg easier install and really easier to use in this case. With a terminal block style you need the rail that holds the terminals and the end blocks and clamps. You can do it with din rail terminals a company called automation direct usually has good prices and you could get the rail the 4 terminal blocks ( knt2blu) these work 12-2 awg ~19$ for 10 terminals.
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